Guest Post: “Researching Renaissance Italy” by Ken Tentarelli

Today, I am pleased to welcome Ken Tentarelli to share information about his research into Renaissance Italy for his novel, “The Blackest Time.” I would like to thank The Coffee Pot Book Club and Ken Tentarelli for allowing me to participate in this blog tour.

Readers expect historical fiction to be authentic, and that aligns well with my passion for research. Often, I spend more time doing research than writing. The fun comes in discovering little-known bits of history. As an example, when you look at maps of Renaissance Italy, you’ll find brightly colored drawings showing the Republic of Florence, the Duchy of Milan, and the other major city-states, but those simplifications ignore the small independent jurisdictions. 

Prepping for my fourth book, Conspiracy in Bologna, I came upon an item describing how the border was established between the Papal States and the Republic of Florence. Both agreed to use the course of a stream as their border, and both sent out teams of surveyors to create maps. As luck would have it, the two teams of surveyors identified different streams, leaving land and a town between the two streams unclaimed by either side. The land and the town became the Republic of Cospaia, which remained an independent republic for four hundred years. You’d be hard pressed to find a map of Renaissance Europe showing that tiny republic or the many other independent jurisdictions sprinkled throughout Italy. 

We are blessed today with the internet, where we can find copies of original source documents written a thousand years ago. Many have been translated into English. I’m fortunate that I can read the ones that are still available only in Italian. One helpful resource for my latest book, The Blackest Time, was a journal written by Giorgio Villani, a banker in Florence. He wrote about life in Florence at the time of the Black Plague until he finally succumbed to the plague. His writings are available on the Internet in Italian. 

Though extensive, the internet is not all-encompassing. In one of my books, a group of men was following an ancient Roman road through central Italy. The road ran alongside the Tiber River—the same river that flows through the center of Rome, but the story is set close to its source in the Apennine Mountains. The men wanted to cross the river to a town on the opposite bank, and for them to get across, I needed to know how they could cross the river. Today, a bridge spans the river, but nowhere on the internet could I find whether a bridge or a ferry was used during the Renaissance, so I emailed the town’s historical society asking whether their records held the answer. They kindly responded with information saying that not only was there a bridge during the Renaissance, but the Romans had built the first bridge at that site nearly two thousand years ago. I could have just picked one of the possibilities, bridge or ferry; after all, the book is fiction, but I felt better knowing the story accurately reflected the history. 

Tidbits I found while doing research for a book in my Renaissance mystery series are what led me to write a book set during the time of the Black Plague. Although the mysteries are set during the 1400s, I got carried away at one point, looked further back in time, and came upon three significant events: a triple conjunction of planets, which was taken as an ill omen by astrologers, two years of incessant rain that destroyed farm crops and caused famine in the cities, and the Black Plague. Those three events happening within a brief span of time convinced me there had to be a story worth telling. 

Blurb:   

Set in the 1300s during the devastating black plague, The Blackest Time is a powerful tale of compassion, love, and the human spirit’s ability to endure immense adversity. 

Gino, the central character, is a young man who leaves his family’s farm to find work in a pharmacy in Florence. His experiences show us how people coped in the most horrific time in history. 

Shortly after Gino arrived in the city, two years of incessant rain destroyed crops in the countryside, leading to famine and despair in the city. Gino offers hope and help to the suffering— he secures shelter for a woman forced to leave her flooded farm, rescues a young girl orphaned by the plague, and aids others who have lost everything. 

The rains had barely ended when the plague hit the city, exposing the true character of its people. While some blamed others for the devastation, the story focuses on the compassionate acts of neighbors helping each other overcome fear and suffering. Doctors bravely risk infection to care for their patients. A woman healer, wrongly accused of witchcraft and driven from the city, finds a new beginning in a village where her skills are appreciated.  

Despite the hardships, love blossoms between Gino and a young woman he met at the apothecary. Together they survive, finding strength in each other and hope in a world teetering on the edge. 

The Blackest Time is a testament to the strength of the human spirit in overcoming unimaginable tragedy. 

Buy Link: 

Universal Buy Link:  https://books2read.com/u/bPO08J  

Author Bio

Ken Tentarelli is a frequent visitor to Italy. In travels from the Alps to the southern coast of Sicily, he developed a love for its history and its people. 

He has studied Italian culture and language in Rome and Perugia, a background he used in his award-winning series of historical thrillers set in the Italian Renaissance. He has taught courses in Italian history spanning time from the Etruscans to the Renaissance, and he’s a strong advocate of libraries and has served as a trustee of his local library and officer of the library foundation. 

When not traveling, Ken and his wife live in beautiful New Hampshire. 

Author Links

Website:   https://KenTentarelli.com  

Facebook:  https://www.facebook.com/ken.tentarelli.3/  

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/kententarelliauthor/  

Book Bub:  https://www.bookbub.com/authors/ken-tentarelli  

Amazon Author Page:   

https://www.amazon.com/stores/Ken-Tentarelli/author/B07PDYZ34Q  

Goodreads: https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/18920645.Ken_Tentarelli  

 

Book Review: “To Kill a Queen” by Amie McNee

When we think of Elizabethan England, we tend to think of the Golden Age of England. A time of discoveries and for the arts to flourish under the Virgin Queen, Elizabeth I. However, there is a darker side. It was also a time of espionage, fears of invasions from other countries, and the hatred between Catholics and Protestants. The dangers of the Elizabethan underworld have reached the queen, as there is an attempt on her life. Can Jack, the son of a crime boss, change his life and find the culprit before they find him, or will he be betrayed by those he calls his friends? Amie McNee explores the seedy underworld of Elizabethan England in her novel, “To Kill a Queen.”

I would like to thank Crooked Lane Books and Net Galley for sending me a copy of this novel. I am a sucker for a good historical mystery, and if it is set in Tudor England, even better. I read the premise of this novel and decided to give McNee a try.

The year is 1579, and Queen Elizabeth I is entertaining her final suitor, the Duke of Anjou. The city is all abuzz with rumors of wedding bells. Everyone except Jack, a young coroner apprentice, who is the son of a crime boss. Jack is helping the Justice of the Peace, Ben, and his mentor, coroner Damian, try to solve a case of a wife beaten to death by her husband. It is a pretty open and shut case, so Jack was surprised to receive another case so soon. A soldier died protecting the queen from an assassin. Now, Jack, Ben, and Damian must find the assassin before it’s too late.

It seems like your typical murder case set in a period setting, but that’s where McNee mixes things up. We get to meet Jack’s father, Axe, the crime boss, and we find out that Jack is not their real identity. Not many know Jack’s true identity, except for his lover Jenny and Damian. Jack’s friend Harry is a common resident of Bedlam, but he is now out, and Jack has to take care of him. When associates close to Jack end up being killed, there is a sense of urgency that Jack has to find the murderer before they find Jack. There are a lot of twists and turns, and the reveal of the whodunnit was shocking, but the conclusion of the book did not fit well with the tone of the rest of the book.

Overall, it was a decent novel, even though it felt more Oliver Twist than Tudor. It was nice to see the typical Tudors step to the side so that we can focus on other stories in Elizabethan London. If you want a detective novel with an unlikely protagonist, filled with twists and turns, and set during the Tudor age, I recommend you read “To Kill a Queen” by Amie McNee.

Book Review: “Reign of Madness” by Lynn Cullen

The daughters of Isabel of Castile and Ferdinand of Aragon lived very interesting lives. Of course, we know what happened to Katherine of Aragon, but her elder sister, Juana, has her own tragic tale. She was known as Juana the Mad because the rumors were that when her husband, Philip the Handsome, died, she carried her coffin around for months and would not let him be buried. Was Juana truly mad, or was it all a ruse by powerful men to steal her lands and titles? Lynn Cullen explores Juana of Castile’s life in her novel, “Reign of Madness.”

This was a book that I found when I was in a used book shop. I saw that it was about Juana of Castile, and I’ll be honest, I have never read a novel that is solely about her life. I know the basic information about her life and reign, but I was hoping that a novel would help me connect to Juana a bit more.

Juana of Castile was the daughter of Isabel of Castile and Ferdinand of Aragon. Since she was the second daughter, she was third in line for the throne of Castile, behind her brother, Juan, and eldest sister, Isabel. She was not destined to become queen, so her parents married her off to Philippe the Handsome, Duke of Burgundy. While it was a marriage for an alliance, love did bloom between Juana and Philippe, even though she did not always get along with Dowager Duchess Margaret of York. Eventually, the honeymoon stage ended, and it was replaced with paranoia and fears of infidelity. At the same time, fortune’s wheel turned in such a way that Juana became her mother’s heir to Castile. Juana doesn’t want power for herself, but Philippe desires power. Juana just wants to take care of her family, which includes her son, the future Charles V. Eventually, the desire for power would become so great that the idea of Juana as mad would overtake her entire life and her legacy.

I had some issues with this book, and there were times when I wanted to throw the book across the room. Some of the biggest ugh moments for me were when she said that bathing was something that only the Spanish were familiar with, and when Philippe kept breaking into Juana’s confinement chamber. These elements, along with a few others, showed me that Cullen didn’t fully grasp the 16th-century European world and its nuances. I also did not like how Juana was portrayed as a mousey character, and her father, Ferdinand, came across as almost a trophy husband.

This novel had the potential to do something groundbreaking when it comes to writing a novel about Juana of Castile by showing that she was sane, but it fell a bit flat. I think if you are someone who is not particular about historical nuances being accurate in a historical novel, and you want something about Juana of Castile, you might enjoy “Reign of Madness” by Lynn Cullen.

Book Review: “Circle of Days” by Ken Follett

Stonehenge, a marvel of the ancient world that still stands centuries after it was built. It has been the center of mystery and wonder for all who gaze upon it. A gigantic monolithic structure, whose purpose has been a source of discussion since its origins, but that raises another quandary: who were the people who built such an impressive landmark? This single question presents a grand opportunity for historical fiction writers as we don’t have many written records for this period of time, which means authors have room to play. Ken Follett took on the daunting task of telling the tales of those who built this imposing monument in his latest novel, “Circle of Days.”

I would like to thank Grand Central Publishing and Net Galley for sending me a copy of this novel. I have been a fan of Ken Follett’s historical fiction novels since I read “A Column of Fire” and then the first two books of the Kingsbridge series, “The Pillars of the Earth” and “World Without End.” A bit out of order, but I am loving that series. When I heard that he was writing a brand new historical fiction novel about Stonehenge, it was such an intriguing idea that I knew I wanted to read it.

Like Follett’s previous historical fiction novels, he focuses on several protagonists from different walks of life to create a cohesive story. In the case of this novel, the three main groups; herders, farmers, and woodlanders. Seft, our first main character, is a bit of an outsider. He is the son of a miner who abuses him, but Seft yearns to start a new life and he wants to build things that will help his community. Seft falls in love with a herder girl named Neen, the daughter of a herder elder named Ani. Neen’s sister Joia is a priestess who dreams of a stone monument so that they can keep their traditions alive for generations.

The dreams of Seft and Joia are ambitious in nature, especially because there are those who want to stay in the old ways instead of moving forward. They include Cog, Seft’s abusive father who wants Seft to remain a minder the rest of his life, Troon, the leader of the farmers who refuses to work with the herders and is the enemy of Scagga, an elder of the herders, and finally Baz, once an ally but who turned into an enemy when disaster strikes. From drought and famine to raids and wars, the people of the Great Plains fight for what they believe in while falling in love, starting their own families, and striving to fulfill their ambitions in life.

This is another masterpiece by Ken Follett. Not only are the characters so dynamic, but their world feels so believable. You can tell Follett was meticulous when it came to the research as he made the world of 2500 BC vibrant and so real. I would have liked to have seen a historical note at the end of this particular novel to explain how he was able to create this ancient world. Overall, I loved every moment of this book and I was genuinely sad when it came to an end. I cannot wait to see what Follett will write about next. If you are a fan of Ken Follett or just want a historical fiction novel that explores one of England’s oldest monuments, I highly recommend you read “Circle of Days.”

Book Review: “Shades of Yellow” by Wendy J. Dunn

Have you ever wondered what it might be like for a historical fiction writer during their writing process? How do they balance both their own lives and the lives of their characters? While we can read author interviews to find out what goes on in an author’s mind, why not take a fun twist of a historical fiction author writing about a historical fiction writer writing her first historical fiction novel? Meet Lucy Ellis, a new writer who is writing her first novel about the death of Amy Robsart while recovering from cancer and going through a divorce. Can Lucy finish her novel about Amy Robsart before her life and her health come crashing down? Wendy J. Dunn tells the tale of two women betrayed in her latest novel, “Shades of Yellow.”

I would like to thank Wendy J. Dunn and The Coffee Pot Book Club for sending me a copy of this novel. I am a fan of Dunn’s writing style, especially when it comes to her novels, so when I heard she was writing a new novel, I knew I wanted to read it before I knew the premise. The idea of a novel about writing a historical fiction novel was very intriguing, and to throw in the story of Amy Robsart in the mix adds to the complexity of this idea, which I love.

We begin with Lucy Ellis about to leave Australia for a research trip to England. Her mother does not want her to go because Lucy’s doctor found something concerning. Lucy is a survivor of breast cancer and is on the verge of a divorce from her husband, Ben, and she is nearing her 30th birthday. Life is hitting her hard, but along the way, she found a historical figure that she resonates with: Amy Robsart. She wants to tell the story of what really happened to Amy in her first novel, so she has to do research in England to make it more authentic.

Once in England, Lucy meets up with her aunt Jo, her cousin Max, and her grandpa, who is a blind author. We get to see her novel-writing process and bits of the novel while Lucy deals with a whole host of family drama. While the main focus of this book is Lucy’s story, sprinkled within are flashes of Amy’s life, how she felt about her husband Robert Dudley, and her rival in love, Elizabeth I. It is by studying Amy’s life that Lucy learns how to embrace life’s challenges and realize that she has people around her who love her. 

It takes a lot of skill to write not just one novel, but a novel within a novel, but Dunn nails it perfectly. I would love to read the finished novel about Amy Robsart one day. This novel takes the aspects of a dual timeline novel and flips it on its head in such an innovative way. If you want a contemporary novel about healing between two women centuries apart and their strengths to keep fighting when life throws so many obstacles their way, I highly recommend you read “Shades of Yellow” by Wendy J. Dunn. 

Blurb: 

During her battle with illness, Lucy Ellis found solace in writing a novel about the mysterious death of Amy Robsart, the first wife of Robert Dudley, the man who came close to marrying Elizabeth I. As Lucy delves into Amy’s story, she also navigates the aftermath of her own experience that brought her close to death and the collapse of her marriage. 

After taking leave from her teaching job to complete her novel, Lucy falls ill again. Fearing she will die before she finishes her book, she flees to England to solve the mystery of Amy Robsart’s death. 

Can she find the strength to confront her past, forgive the man who broke her heart, and take control of her own destiny?

Who better to write about a betrayed woman than a woman betrayed

Buy Link: 

Universal Buy Link: https://books2read.com/u/mqPGgd  

This title is available to read on #KindleUnlimited. 

Author Bio

WENDY J. DUNN is a multi-award-winning Australian writer fascinated by Tudor history – so much so she was not surprised to discover a family connection to the Tudors, not long after the publication of Dear Heart, How Like You This, her first Anne Boleyn novel, which narrated the Anne Boleyn story through the eyes of Sir Thomas Wyatt, the elder.  

Her family tree reveals the intriguing fact that one of her ancestral families – possibly over three generations – had purchased land from both the Boleyn and Wyatt families to build up their holdings. It seems very likely Wendy’s ancestors knew the Wyatts and Boleyns personally. 

Wendy gained her PhD in 2014 and tutors in writing at Swinburne University of Technology, Australia. She loves walking in the footsteps of the historical people she gives voice to in her books.  

Author Links

Website: http://www.wendyjdunn.com/ 

Newsletter: https://wendyjdunn.substack.com/ 

Facebook:  https://www.facebook.com/authorwendyjdunn 

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/wendyjdunnauthor/  

Threads: https://www.threads.com/@wendyjdunnauthor  

Bluesky: https://bsky.app/profile/wendyjdunn.bsky.social  

Book Bub: https://www.bookbub.com/profile/wendy-j-dunn  

TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@wendyjdunn  

Amazon Author Page: https://www.amazon.com/stores/Wendy-J.-Dunn/author/B004FRTZFA  

Goodreads: https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/197156.Wendy_J_Dunn 

LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/dr-wendy-dunn-6358181a  

Book Review: “The Empty Throne” (Book 8 of the Saxon Stories Series) by Bernard Cornwell

There’s nothing like a quest to keep a man going, even on the brink of death, but in the case of Uhtred of Bebbanburg, he has several quests. His main goal is to reclaim his birthright, Bebbanburg, but he also wants to help fulfill Alfred’s dream of uniting the kingdoms to create England. However, life can present even more challenges, and Uhtred knows this all too well. Uhtred not only has to save a royal heir and his daughter, but he also must find the sword that wounded him and place a woman on a throne to rule in a time when women were seen rather than heard. It’s a lot to do, but if anyone is up to the task, it is Uhtred of Bebbanburg. The question is, will he survive? Bernard Cornwell brings us another action-packed novel full of adventures in book 8 of the Saxon Stories series, “The Empty Throne.”

Cornwell begins with Uhtred, the young Uhtred, who is serving Lady Aethelflaed as she fights against the Danes. Their enemies believe the elder Uhtred is dead, but he is far from it. Unfortunately, Uhtred the elder was injured during his fight with Cnut, and the injury is causing him pain. But a little pain is not going to stop Uhtred from fulfilling his oaths. He finds out that Lord Aethelhelm is after Aethelstan, the illegitimate son of King Edward, who actually might be legitimate. Aethelstan is staying safe with Uhtred’s daughter Stiorra, but when Uhtred realizes they are in danger, he rushes to their aid. What Uhtred does not realize is that his daughter Stiorra is a pagan and is stronger than he thinks.

Once things are settled with his family, Uhtred receives word that Lady Aethelflaed will be fighting for the throne of Mercia as her husband Aethelred is dying. It’s a risky endeavor, as women did not rule during this time, but Uhtred the Elder comes up with a plan to make sure she becomes Aethelflaed, Lady of the Mercians. Finally, Uhtred must find Cnut’s sword Ice-Spite, and the journey will lead him to Wales, a great battle, and one of Uhtred’s children leaving on their own adventure.

This is so far my favorite book in the series. The fact that we got to see Aethelflaed become the Lady of the Mercians while Uhtred stood by her side. We got to see Uhtred the Younger and Stiorra grow up in this book and start on their own paths. And of course, we get to see Uhtred of Bebbanburg and his men being badasses in battle. Such a fun and thrilling novel, and I can’t wait to see where Cornwell takes this series. If you are a fan of the first seven books in the Saxon Stories series, you will love “The Empty Throne” by Bernard Cornwell.

Guest Post: “Gilded Power – The Jewelry Legacy of the Tudors” by Sam Mee

I am pleased to welcome Sam Mee, founder of the Antique Ring Boutique, to my blog today to share an article about Tudor jewelry.

Jewelry was predominantly religious in the austere Middle Ages, focusing on relics, devotional rings, and crosses. But the Tudor rulers developed it as a way to project their own royal power and authority. Clothing fashions of the time emphasized structure, and monarchs like Henry VIII and Elizabeth I integrated jewelry to proclaim their status and divine favor. 

This was the age of portraiture, when the elite commissioned likenesses as propaganda. Hans Holbein the Younger depicted Henry VIII in a way that showed off his jewels and chains of office as much as his formidable bulk (and codpiece). Holbein’s most famous image of Henry is a 1537 mural that, while destroyed by fire in 1698, is still known through copies. It shows the King with a powerful stance and wearing multiple chains and rings to further emphasized his authority and wealth.

Holbein portrait, public domain image: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f9/After_Hans_Holbein_the_Younger_-_Portrait_of_Henry_VIII_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg/1024px-After_Hans_Holbein_the_Younger_-_Portrait_of_Henry_VIII_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg

Three similar Armada portraits of Elizabeth I were painted after England defeated the Spanish Armada. They take allegory even further. The Queen is almost encased in pearls. Her gown is embroidered with them, they sit on her hair, and pearl ropes hang from her neck, all to symbolize chastity and divine protection. More explicitly, her hand rests on the globe as a symbol of empire. Her powerful warships are visible in the background behind her gem-encrusted crown, signifying divine authority. 

Armada portrait, public domain image: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7b/Elizabeth_I_%28Armada_Portrait%29.jpg

In fact, Elizabeth I was rarely painted without pearls – other examples include the Darnley Portrait (c1575) and Rainbow Portrait (c1600). The pearls repeatedly symbolized the Virgin Queen’s chastity and wealth in bodily form.

The sumptuary laws

If gems and clothing signified power, then rulers needed to control who wore what. Medieval 15th-century sumptuary laws started to codify this across Europe. A 1463 English statute restricted who could wear “royal purple”, while a 1483 act restricted velvet to knights and lords and satin for gentry with a yearly income of £40.

Tudor England was an intensely hierarchical society, and so the laws were tightened further. Elizabeth’s 1574 Act of Apparel spelled out in detail who could wear what – her rules set which fabrics hats could be made of and dictated the length of swords, depending on the wearer’s standing. Check out the list here: https://midtudormanor.wordpress.com/sumptuary-laws/

Jewelry was also regulated with gold chains, heavy pearls, and precious stones reserved exclusively for the nobility. 

Enforcement was patchy but real, with surviving court records showing individuals tried for breaches and fined. These laws were somewhat symbolic, though. They were a way to make hierarchy visible rather than consistently enforced. Ambitious merchants and courtiers often flaunted jewels beyond their rank, with monarchs turning a blind eye.

Fashion at court

Jewelry was inseparable from clothing at court. Goldsmiths worked hand in hand with tailors, and jewels were sewn directly into doublets and headdresses.

We know Henry VIII wore vast gold chains and pendants and even occasionally jeweled codpieces. Courtiers followed suit with jeweled hat badges, enameled rings, and ornate girdle books (these were tiny, jeweled prayer books that hung from belts). They also wore gold pearl earrings. Women sported pearls, rubies, and diamonds on top of layered dresses made from richly embroidered fabrics. 

Anne Boleyn’s necklace – a large gold “B” with three drop-pearls dangling from it – is one of the period’s most famous jewels. It’s a very personal bit of jewelry that symbolized her individuality and status. (It survives only in portraits – its whereabouts after her 1536 beheading is not known).

Anne Boleyn’s B necklace, public domain image: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f2/Anne_boleyn.jpg

Global trends and treasures

The rise in the prominence of jewelry was part of a wider trend of expanding horizons – culturally, societally, geographically, and economically. Spain’s influx of New World gold and silver boosted Europe’s wealth, with England claiming its own share through figures like Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Francis Drake.

There’s extraordinary archaeological evidence of this, not just from the images of the time but from the Cheapside Hoard, discovered in 1912 beneath a London cellar. It’s a collection of more than 400 pieces. There are emerald rings, diamond pendants, and enameled chains with gems sourced from Colombia, India, Burma, and Brazil. The treasure shows that London goldsmiths had access to a global supply of jewels long before the height of the empire. 

Together with portraits, the Hoard is the richest record we have of Tudor jewelry, showing how jewels were actually made. You can read more about it here: https://www.londonmuseum.org.uk/collections/london-stories/jewels-cheapside-hoard/

Evolution of Tudor Jewelry

New fashions, new materials, and new freedoms (for some). Tudor jewelers developed new techniques to match these wider changes in society, combining medieval traditions with Renaissance artistry. Enameling reached new heights, and these techniques were carried forward into Georgian mourning jewelry and even into Victorian revival pieces.

Foil-backing was widely used in Tudor times to enhance jewels. Thin sheets of colored foil were placed behind gems like diamonds, rubies, or rock crystal to enhance their brilliance. This technique remained common until the 18th century, when more advanced diamond cutting began to produce inherent sparkle.

Gem cutting itself advanced in the Tudor period. Gemstones are rarely cut in bespoke shapes but tend to use standardized cuts designed to maximize brilliance or colour. This has been true since the Renaissance. Earlier medieval gems were typically worn as cabochons (smooth, polished domes), which enhanced colour but not brilliance. Then, from the late 15th century, jewelry began to experiment with faceting, where flat surfaces were cut at angles to reflect light, and Tudor lapidary work played a key role in the development and take-up of new techniques:

  • Cabochon: The oldest approach. A smooth, rounded dome without facets. Used in the medieval period for sapphires, garnets, and emeralds.
  • Point cut: This simple cut shaped a diamond into a pyramid with four sides. Mostly common in the 15th century.
  • Table cut: Developed in the late 15th century, this removed the top of the pyramid to create a flat “table” facet. It meant increased brilliance and became standard in Tudor jewelry.
  • Rose cut: Emerged in the 16th century as diamond saws and polishing technology improved. This had a flat base and a domed top covered in triangular facets to resemble a rosebud. The rose cut was popular until the 19th century.
  • Old mine cut: An 18th-century development. It’s a squarish cut combined with a high crown, deep pavilion, and large culet. It was the forerunner of the modern brilliant cut.

You can read more about the evolution from medieval jewelry techniques here. (https://historicalbritainblog.com/the-debt-antique-jewellery-owes-to-the-middle-ages-guest-post-by-samuel-mee/)

Settings in Tudor times typically enclosed the stone with gold, but Tudor jewelers began experimenting with more open settings to admit light. It was the Stuart era that really saw the development of the claw setting for diamonds, where the gem was held with tiny metal arms to allow much more light to pass through, dramatically increasing sparkle.

Tudor trends can be seen in subsequent centuries: 

  • Georgian jewelers turned enamel and foil into sentimental jewelry such as portrait miniatures (also common in Tudor times) and mourning rings.
  • Victorian designers enjoyed historical revival, and they often deliberately echoed Tudor styles, such as heavy Holbein-like gold chains and memento mori skulls.
  • Edwardian jewelers drove a revival of Elizabethan-style pears and combined them with lace-like platinum settings.
  • Art Deco designs were modernist in geometry but had a strong revivalist theme from Egyptian motifs to statement designs that matched 16th-century theatricality.

Surviving themes

Tudor jeweler was many things: regulated, global, technical, and symbolic. It was constrained by law, used as propaganda, and yet pushed at boundaries. It was part of the evolution of techniques and materials that developed over several hundred years as jeweler changed to become ever more personal. And even specific gem traditions persisted. The Tudor love of pearls was echoed in the Edwardian era. Tudor foiling foreshadowed Georgian brilliance. Tudor enameling was revived multiple times in the centuries that followed. Let’s just hope the codpiece doesn’t return. 

About the Author

Sam Mee is the founder of the Antique Ring Boutique (https://www.antiqueringboutique.com/), which sells rings from the Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco eras. He has several guides on his website for buying rings from different historical periods. EG, you can learn more about ring cuts and foiling in the guide to Georgian rings: https://www.antiqueringboutique.com/en-us/pages/georgian. He is a member of both Lapada (https://lapada.org/dealers/antique-ring-boutique/) and BADA (https://www.bada.org/dealer/antique-ring-boutique). 

Book Review: “Nemesis: Medieval England’s Greatest Enemy” by Catherine Hanley

The Plantagenets, one of England’s most dynamic dynasties, were always in the middle of some sort of conflict. Whether they were fighting foreign adversaries, their own people, or their own family, it felt like the Plantagenets were always getting into some sort of trouble. And there was one king who knew how to use the weaknesses of the kings of England to his advantage. He was King Philip II of France, also known as Philip Augustus. He had to deal with four different Plantagenet kings and had a strategy for each one of them. Just what were Philip II’s strategies, and how did his reign affect English/French relationships as a whole? These questions are answered in Catherine Hanley’s book, “Nemesis: Medieval England’s Greatest Enemy.”

I would like to thank Osprey Publishing and Net Galley for sending me a copy of this book. I enjoy reading about the Plantagenets and their impact on England and Europe as a whole. When I saw that this book took a French approach to the Plantagenets and focused on Philip Augustus, it was an intriguing premise to me.

As Hanley states in the introduction, this book is not your typical biography, as she focuses on the relationship between Philip Augustus and his Plantagenet opponents. That does not mean that we do not get biographical information for Philip, who was the son of Louis VII and Adela of Blois. Per tradition, as the heir to the French throne, Philip was crowned as Junior King of France on November 1, 1179, which meant that his father was still alive when he was crowned, and he trained to become the proper King of France.

While Philip knew that he had factions to deal with inside of France, his main concerns were overseas with the Plantagenets, primarily King Henry II and his sons. Over the course of his forty-year reign, Philip dealt with Henry II, Richard I the Lionheart, John, and Henry III. Each English king presented his own challenges for Philip, but Philip took them in stride and worked hard to make France stronger. At the same time, Philip had to deal with his own family dramas. He was married three times to Isabelle of Hainault, Ingeborg of Denmark, and Agnes of Merania. It was his marriage to Agnes of Merania that gave Philip his heir, the warrior King Louis VIII of France. However, it was Ingeborg of Denmark who gave Philip the biggest headache as she never gave up fighting for her marriage.

From military to political strategies, Hanley shows how Philip maneuvered against the English, and yet she shows that he was not a perfect person or a king. Philip was a flawed human who had to deal with the cards he was dealt like anyone else. Hanley presents a comprehensive book that explores the complex nature of medieval politics and how one man battled against an entire dynasty during his reign. If you are someone who wants to explore the early Plantagenets from the eyes of their enemy, King Philip II of France, I recommend you read “Nemesis: Medieval England’s Greatest Enemy” by Catherine Hanley.

Book Review: “Great Harry’s Navy: How Henry VIII Gave England Sea Power” by Geoffrey Moorhouse

One would assume that, since England is an island nation, its navy has been its strength since its foundation. That, however, was not always the case. While there were naval battles during the Middle Ages, it was not a navy like we know today. The concept of the Royal Navy was founded during the time of the Tudors, especially under the reign of Henry VIII. So, how did Henry VIII turn a navy from 7 ships to over fifty ships that could stand with other European navies? Geoffrey Moorhouse examines the creation of the English navy in his book, “Great Harry’s Navy: How Henry VIII Gave England Sea Power.”

This particular title was a used bookstore find for me. I saw that it was about the Tudors, and an aspect that I am not super familiar with. I don’t read a lot of nautically-based books, especially nonfiction, so I decided to go on a whim and try it out.

Moorhouse recognizes that this is a highly specialized book, so before delving into the history, he includes an extensive glossary at the beginning of the book to assist those unfamiliar with nautical terminology. He then dives into the origins of the English navy pre-Henry VII, and we can see that Henry VII did not leave his son, Henry VIII, many ships. However, Henry VIII had such a passion for ships that he got to work right away making shipbuilding centers and making sure that the right men were in the positions of power to make his navy superior to those in Europe. Moorhouse goes into minute detail to show how the Tudor navy rose, fell, and rose again to create a foundation that Henry’s children, Edward VI, Mary I, and Elizabeth I would build upon to create a sea superpower.

I am a fan of challenging books and discovering new topics in history. I wanted to learn more about naval history, presented in an easy-to-follow writing style. While Moorhouse does attempt to do this, his exuberant nerdy side for naval history comes out, and it felt like he was having a conversation with experts, not novices. It was one of those books that took me a long time to read because there was so much information that I was trying to digest as a novice.

I think this book is definitely written for a specific group of people, and they are those who love nautical history and learning about the Tudors. For novices, like myself, it may be quite a trial to read. If you are in the latter category and you want to read this, take your time and take notes if need be. I think this is a book that could be a great resource for historical fiction authors and just those who want a different approach to the Tudors. If that is you, “Great Harry’s Navy: How Henry VIII Gave England Sea Power” by Geoffrey Moorhouse might be a book to add to your collection.

Book Review: “Dark Renaissance: The Dangerous Times and Fatal Genius of Shakespeare’s Greatest Rival” by Stephen Greenblatt

Sixteenth-century England was a time of great change. There were religious changes as the crown passed from one member of the Tudor family to another. Wars and illnesses like the plague and the sweating sickness were rampant. However, this was also a time of an explosion of the arts, particularly of the theatre. We see men like William Shakespeare and Ben Jonson rise from obscurity to write plays that would propel them to become phenomena. There was a third playwright who should be included in this list. He was the son of a cobbler who was educated at Cambridge University. A brilliant man who wrote groundbreaking plays while he was a spy for her majesty Queen Elizabeth I, his cause of death when he was only in his twenties would remain a mystery for centuries. Christopher (Kit) Marlowe’s story is told in Stephen Greenblatt’s latest book, “Dark Renaissance: The Dangerous Times and Fatal Genius of Shakespeare’s Greatest Rival.”

I would like to thank W. W. Norton & Company and Net Galley for sending me a copy of this book. I will be honest. Although I do spend a lot of time studying the 16th century, I don’t read a lot of plays by Shakespeare or Marlowe. So, when I saw this book and its premise, it piqued my curiosity. I knew that Marlowe was a famous playwright, he was a spy, and that he died young, but that’s all I knew before reading this book. I wanted to know more about Kit Marlowe and his world.

Christopher Kit Marlowe was the son of John Marlowe, an immigrant shoemaker, and his wife, Katherine Arthur. As their only son, it was believed that Kit would become a cobbler, but he had different skills that were more academically inclined. The cobbler’s son would study the classical writers of Ancient Greece and Rome, while learning Latin and debating theology. Kit would find himself at Cambridge University, and he paid for his education on a scholarship. While the main focus of these chapters is Marlowe, Greenblatt does show the lives of the scholars and fellow students who would shape Marlowe’s writings and his path in life.

Just as Marlowe was about to complete his Master of the Arts degree, his attendance dropped, and he was seen in Rheims in France. He was beginning to establish connections to the Elizabethan spy network with William Cecil, Lord Burghley, and Sir Francis Walsingham. This is the stage of life where we not only see Marlowe get in trouble with the law, but we also get to see Marlowe become a playwright who would rival Shakespeare himself. Greenblatt takes his time to analyze Marlowe’s works, including Tamburlaine the Great, Edward II, The Jew of Malta, and Doctor Faustus. Finally, Greenblatt examines Marlowe’s death on May 30, 1593, and who might have been responsible for his murder.

I found this book extremely informative, not only when it comes to the life of Christopher Kit Marlowe, but also the worlds of Elizabethan higher education, the theatrical community, the divides on religious beliefs, and the spy world. Marlowe is one of those figures who challenged what it meant to be a playwright through his rather controversial works, which inspired others like William Shakespeare. If you want a book about a playwright with a tragic end who doesn’t get a lot of attention, I highly recommend you read “Dark Renaissance: The Dangerous Times and Fatal Genius of Shakespeare’s Greatest Rival” by Stephen Greenblatt.