Book Review: “Anne Boleyn’s First Love: The Life of Henry Percy” by Jan-Marie Knights

Every Tudor nerd knows the story of Anne Boleyn and Henry VIII. A relationship that started with lust/love turned tragic with the execution of Anne. However, Henry VIII was not the only man who was vying for Anne’s affection. The first man who ever asked for Anne’s hand in marriage was Henry Percy, the man who would become the 6th Earl of Northumberland. The relationship obviously did not happen, and for many, Henry Percy became an obscure figure in Tudor history. Who was Henry Percy, and what happened to him after Wolsey broke up the relationship between Henry and Anne? Jan-Marie Knights explores his life in the first full-length biography of Henry Percy in her latest book, “Anne Boleyn’s First Love: The Life of Henry Percy.”

I would like to thank Amberley Publishing for sending me a copy of this book. I am always interested in reading about lesser-known figures during the time of the Tudors, so when I saw this title, I was intrigued. I knew a little bit about Henry Percy, so I was hoping to learn more about his life.

To understand Henry Percy’s place in Tudor society, we have to go back to the origins of the family, which traces back all the way to William the Conqueror. Knights follow the branches of the Percy tree, with the many Henrys, to the Henry Percy who this biography is about, including the infamous Henry “Hotspur” Percy. Our Henry was the son of Henry Algernon Percy, 5th Earl of Northumberland, and his wife, Catherine Spencer. We get to see Henry become a page for Cardinal Wolsey and become a knight in his own right.

Henry wanted to marry and start a family with Anne Boleyn, and it seems like, at the time, she was interested in him as well. However, it was not meant to be, as King Henry VIII also had his eyes on Anne. Obviously, the King would marry Anne, and Henry would marry Mary Talbot. Both relationships did not have a happy ending. Besides his troubled marriage with Mary, we get to see how Henry dealt with conflicts near the border with Scotland and the Pilgrimage of Grace, which hit a bit closer to home. Henry died without any heirs, so Knights shows what happened to the earldom of Northumberland.

I was a bit underwhelmed with this biography. I wanted more information about Henry Percy, but I felt like his story was buried with information about his family, his father, and the story of Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn’s romance. I think Knights did a decent job with the research aspect of this book. If you want a good introductory biography to the Percy family and Henry Percy’s role in the Tudor court, you might want to try “Anne Boleyn’s First Love: The Life of Henry Percy” by Jan-Marie Knights.

Book Review: “The Lost Book of Elizabeth Barton” by Jennifer N. Brown

England was undergoing a shift during the reign of Henry VIII. The king was sick and tired of the pope not giving him the divorce he so desired so that he could marry Anne Boleyn, so he wanted to split from the papacy. Obviously, some opposed his break from Rome and used different methods to stop what they considered madness. Take, for example, Elizabeth Barton, known as the Holy Maid of Kent, for her prophecies tied to the marriage of Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn. Many may not know her name, but centuries later, a book of her prophecies will change the course of Dr. Alison Sage’s life and those who attended a special Consortium. What secrets does this book hold, and can Alison survive the cutthroat world of academia? Jennifer N. Brown tells the tale of these two women, separated by centuries, and of a book that unites them in her first novel, “The Lost Book of Elizabeth Barton.”

I would like to thank St. Martin’s Press and Net Galley for sending me a copy of this novel. What caught my eye about this novel was the mention of Elizabeth Barton. I wanted to know more about Elizabeth Barton herself, as she is merely a footnote in other novels and nonfiction books. I wanted to see how Brown would approach her story with a modern tale.

We begin with Elizabeth Barton, an orphan who was a servant at the Cobb farm. One day, she fell ill with a fever and had her prophecy that came true. It attracted the attention of powerful men like Bishop Fisher, who allowed Elizabeth to enter St. Sepulchre’s Priory under the supervision of Prioress Philippa Jonys and her spiritual advisor, Edward Bocking. Bocking would write down Barton’s visions, but there was one that became too dangerous, the vision of Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn in hell if they married each other. The king did not take kindly to this prophecy, and so Barton and Bocking were killed and her books destroyed. Prioress Philippa and Agnes Vale worked hard to protect their memory.

In the modern age, we are introduced to Dr. Alison Sage, a historian, who recently found one of Barton’s books, which she presents at a medieval conference. It attracts the attention of Roger Shefield, who invites Alison to the Codex Consortium at Vale House Manor. There she runs into someone from her past, Westley, who goes from enemies to something more. To add to the drama, there is a treasure hunt about the Elizabeth Barton book and a murder mystery.

While I appreciate the amount of effort Brown put into this novel, I feel like she was throwing a lot of ideas at this book and not everything worked, especially having a murder mystery so late in the book. I feel like the modern storyline was a tad weaker than the 16th-century story. Overall, it was a thought-provoking read that shed a bit of light on the life and legacy of Elizabeth Barton. If you want a novel about a lesser-known figure in Tudor history with a modern twist, I recommend you read “The Lost Book of Elizabeth Barton” by Jennifer N. Brown.

Book Review: “The Boleyn Curse” by Alexandra Walsh

The court of Henry VIII was a treacherous place for anyone, but especially for the Boleyn family. We all know the stories of Anne, Mary, George, and Thomas, but one figure from this illustrious family does not get enough attention: Elizabeth Boleyn, the mother of Anne, Mary, and George. What was her relationship like with her family, her husband, and most importantly, King Henry VIII? And what does a Chaucer manuscript recently discovered at Cerensthorpe Abbey have to do with Elizabeth and the Boleyns? Alxandra Walsh explores the life of Elizabeth Boleyn and the mystery of the missing Chaucer in her latest dual-timeline novel, “The Boleyn Curse.”

I would like to thank Boldwood Books and Net Galley for sending me a copy of this novel. I enjoy a good dual-timeline novel, and when I saw that this one also featured Elizabeth Boleyn as the main character, I was intrigued. Elizabeth Boleyn has not been the focus of novels of the Boleyn family that I have read, so I was interested to see how her story would translate into historical fiction.

Since this is a dual timeline novel, there are two main timelines. We get to explore the Tudor period with Elizabeth Boleyn and the modern day with Tabitha Mundy, the archivist of Cerensthorpe Abbey. We begin with the modern storyline and Tabitha, who is employed by the owner of Cerensthorpe Abbey, Edith Swanne, to archive the entire estate. Tabitha is dealing with the death of her husband, Blake, when she meets Edith’s nephew and heir to the estate, Gulliver. Edith gives Tabitha the task of finding a missing Chaucer manuscript by decoding clues left behind in a journal from the 1900s. The journey to the missing manuscript holds a connection to Elizabeth Boleyn and the curse upon the family.

We also jump back to the life of Elizabeth Boleyn, who was Elizabeth Howard when the audience is introduced to her in 1485. Her father was arrested by the new King Henry VII for supporting King Richard III, but eventually the family rebuilt their reputation. Elizabeth falls in love with Thomas Boleyn and joins the glittery court of King Henry VIII, where she catches the eye of Henry VIII himself. Elizabeth fights for her family and the love of her husband, even if it means making an enemy of the crown itself.

I think this was a decent novel, even though it explored my least favorite rumor about the Boleyn family. I also thought the diary entries were a bit distracting from the rest of the narratives, a case of too many stories going on at once. Overall, I did enjoy this book. If you want a novel that is a dual timeline or a novel that features Elizabeth Boleyn, you should check out “The Boleyn Curse” by Alexandra Walsh.

Guest Post: “Spotlight for ‘The Queen’s Maid/ The Anne Boleyn Chronicles’ by Rozsa Gaston”

Today, I am pleased to welcome Rozsa Gaston to my blog to share a spotlight for her book series “The Anne Boleyn Chronicles” and her latest novel, “The Queen’s Maid.” I would like to thank Rozsa Gaston and The Coffee Pot Book Club for allowing me to participate in this blog tour.

 

Blurb:  

The Tudor series continues! For fans of Philippa Gregory, Elizabeth Chadwick, Carol McGrath, and Anne O’Brien.

A new adventure begins for Anne…

France, 1514

After an enlightening period of training as a lady’s maid at Margaret of Austria’s court, Anne Boleyn has been sent to France.

She arrives at the Palace of Tournelles, home of ageing King Louis and his new English wife, Mary Tudor, sister of King Henry VIII. As Anne speaks French, her main role is to serve as translator for Queen Mary.

Anne’s sister Mary is also at the French court, and Anne soon learns that not everyone is pleased about the union between the French king and his young queen.

The king’s cousin-in-law, Louise of Savoy, is desperate for Queen Mary not to fall pregnant, so that her son, Francis, will ascend the throne.

And with Louise and the English queen pulling Anne in two different directions, it will not be possible to appease everyone.

Can Anne successfully navigate the familial politics at the French royal court? Will she make her mark as one of the queen’s maids?

Or could her divided loyalties prove to be her undoing…?

THE QUEEN’S MAID is a thoroughly researched, fascinating historical novel set during the 16th century in Europe. It is the second book in the Anne Boleyn Chronicles series.

Wonderfully detailed and entirely enjoyable. This is a young Anne in whom I absolutely believe, and who does much to explain the woman she’d become.’ – Sarah Gristwood, author of Game of Queens.

THE ANNE BOLEYN CHRONICLES SERIES:
Book One: Maid of Honour
Book Two: The Queen’s Maid
Book Three: Queen of Diamonds 

Buy Links: 

Universal Buy Links: 

Book 1: https://getbook.at/MaidOfHonour  

Book 2: https://getbook.at/TheQueensMaid 

Book 3: https://getbook.at/QueenOfDiamondsAB  

Series Buy Links: 

Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FNQHK66N  

Amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0FNQHK66N  

This series is available to read on #KindleUnlimited. 

Author Bio

Rozsa Gaston is a historical fiction author who writes books on women who reach for what they want out of life.  

She is the author of Maid of Honour: Anne Boleyn at Margaret of Austria’s Court, 𝗚𝗿𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗣𝗿𝗶𝘇𝗲 𝗪𝗶𝗻𝗻𝗲𝗿 of the 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟰 𝗖𝗛𝗔𝗨𝗖𝗘𝗥 𝗕𝗼𝗼𝗸 𝗔𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗱 for Early Historical Fiction, The Queen’s Maid: Anne Boleyn in France, Queen of Diamonds: The French Royal Court, Margaret of Austria, 𝗙𝗶𝗿𝘀𝘁 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝗰𝗲 𝗪𝗶𝗻𝗻𝗲𝗿 of the 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟯 𝗖𝗛𝗔𝗨𝗖𝗘𝗥 𝗕𝗼𝗼𝗸 𝗔𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗱 for Early Historical Fiction, the four-book Anne of Brittany Series: Anne and Charles; Anne and Louis, 𝗚𝗲𝗻𝗲𝗿𝗮𝗹 𝗙𝗶𝗰𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗪𝗶𝗻𝗻𝗲𝗿 of the 𝟮𝟬𝟭𝟴 𝗣𝗨𝗕𝗟𝗜𝗦𝗛𝗘𝗥𝗦 𝗪𝗘𝗘𝗞𝗟𝗬 𝗕𝗼𝗼𝗸𝗟𝗶𝗳𝗲 𝗣𝗿𝗶𝘇𝗲; Anne and Louis: Rulers and Lovers; and Anne and Louis Forever Bound, 𝗙𝗶𝗿𝘀𝘁 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝗰𝗲 𝗪𝗶𝗻𝗻𝗲𝗿 of the 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟮 𝗖𝗛𝗔𝗨𝗖𝗘𝗥 𝗕𝗼𝗼𝗸 𝗔𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗱 for Early Historical Fiction. 

Other works include Sense of Touch, Marguerite and Gaston, The Least Foolish Woman in France, Paris Adieu, and Budapest Romance. 

Gaston studied European history at Yale and received her master’s degree in international affairs from Columbia. She worked at Institutional Investor, WR Capital, and as a columnist for The Westchester Guardian before becoming a novelist.  

She is currently working on Book Four of The Anne Boleyn Chronicles, covering Anne Boleyn’s time at the 1520 Field of Cloth of Gold. She lives in Bronxville, New York, with her family. 

Her motto? History matters. 

Author Links

Website: www.rozsagaston.com  

Twitter / X: https://x.com/RozsaGaston  

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/rozsa.gaston/  

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rozsagastonauthor/  

Book Bub: https://www.bookbub.com/profile/rozsa-gaston  

TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@rozsagastonbooks  

Amazon Author Page: https://www.amazon.com/stores/Rozsa-Gaston/author/B0084F8MJE  

Goodreads: https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/5391292.Rozsa_Gaston  

 

 

 

Book Review: “Capturing a Queen: The Image of Anne Boleyn” by Owen Emmerson and Kate McCaffrey

Have you ever stared at a portrait of a historical figure and wondered if that’s what they really looked like? Anne Boleyn is one of the most famous queens in all of English history. Her image of a woman with dark hair, wearing a dark gown with a French hood, and a B initial necklace. For many people, this is what Anne Boleyn looked like, but is that accurate? What did Anne Boleyn look like, and why does it matter? The most recent exhibit at Hever Castle explores these questions, and the book that accompanies this exhibit goes deeper into the research behind this exhibit. The book shares the same name as the exhibit, “Capturing a Queen: The Image of Anne Boleyn” by Owen Emmerson and Kate McCaffrey.

I would like to thank Owen Emmerson for sending me a copy of this book. I have been interested in this exhibit ever since it was announced that Dr. Owen Emmerson and Kate McCaffrey were researching portraits of Anne Boleyn. Since I could not visit the exhibit in person, I really wanted a copy of this companion book as a way to support the research that is ongoing at Hever Castle.

So how can we possibly understand what a woman who lived over 500 years ago looked like? Well, to begin with, we need to examine how her daughter, Queen Elizabeth I, brought her mother’s name and figure out of obscurity to solidify her own legitimacy as Queen of England. We get an exploration of corridor portraits and the famous Chequers Ring to show how the Elizabethans remembered Anne Boleyn. The book then moves to the term damnatio memoriae, which was a Roman practice to eliminate someone’s name and images from history. In the case of Anne Boleyn, her image and name were not eliminated, and in fact, we do have a few artifacts that survived to the modern day, including some that were recently discovered, and her personal books.

Now, we come to the main topic of the exhibition, what Anne Boleyn looked like. We get to examine physical descriptions of Anne, including her hair color, which might surprise people. We also get a glimpse of how Anne’s European education shaped her time as queen consort. Finally, Emmerson and McCaffrey give their readers a deep dive into contemporary portraits of Anne, what messages the portraits tell, and how the image of Anne transformed over the centuries through different media. This includes an in-depth analysis of the Hever Rose portrait, which is one of the most famous portraits of Anne Boleyn, that recently underwent more scientific research.

I loved this book so much. I learned a great deal from this book, and I am sure the exhibit is fabulous in person. The amount of research that went into this exhibit and this book was extraordinary, and I applaud the respect that they gave to those historians who came before in this field of research. If you are a Tudor nerd or an Anne Boleyn fan, the new exhibit at Hever Castle is a must-see exhibit, and “Capturing a Queen: The Image of Anne Boleyn” by Owen Emmerson and Kate McCaffrey is a book you must read.

Book Review: “The Wives of Henry VIII: Rethinking the Stories Behind the Symbols” by Jessica Carey-Bunning

The wives of Henry VIII have been an area of fascination for history nerds and novices alike for centuries. We all know the stories of Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Anna of Cleves, Katherine Howard, and Kateryn Parr. However, these stories only offer a glimpse at the lives of these women. They follow the more traditional studies of the Tudor queens, but what happens if we take a more revisionist approach to their lives? What can we learn about these women besides their crowns and who they all married? There is more to their stories, like the minute details that Jessica Carey-Bunning explores in her book, “The Wives of Henry VIII: Rethinking the Stories Behind the Symbols.”

 

I would like to thank Pen and Sword Books and Net Galley for sending me a copy of this book. I am always looking for a new approach to the Tudor queens. So when I saw that it was a book featuring all six wives with a promised fresh perspective, I decided to give it a chance. 

 

Carey-Bunning has taken a different approach to these six remarkable women. Instead of a biography about their lives, she has chosen to highlight aspects of their lives. We, of course, go in chronological order, starting with Catherine of Aragon. With Catherine, we examine why she was named Catherine and its significance in her family, as well as her finances as the widow of Arthur, and extended through her annulment. We then moved to Anne Boleyn and explored her role in the Chateau Vert pagent as well as her looks, either with the English gable hood or the French hood, and she includes the latest research into what Anne might have looked like. After Anne, we transition to Jane Seymour, to her stance on matters of faith and whether or not she was a popular queen. 

 

Anna of Cleves may have had the shortest reign of all the queens, but it is her education and her faith that Carey-Bunning explores in her section. Katherine Howard also had one of the shortest reigns of any of Henry’s wives, but for different reasons than Anna of Cleves. With Katherine, we explore exactly what kind of influence the young queen had and her connection to her infamous cousin Anne Boleyn. Finally, we examine Kateryn Parr, the 17th century’s fascination with the queen, and the tale of her almost arrest over religious matters. 

 

I found this book refreshing with the new approach to the wives of Henry VIII. I learned new aspects of the queens, which was very nice. Carey-Bunning combined an easy-to-follow writing style with innovative research to give her readers a different way to look at the Tudor wives. If you want to learn something new about the Tudor queens, I think you will enjoy “The Wives of Henry VIII: Rethinking the Stories Behind the Symbols,” by Jessica Carey-Bunning.

Book Review: “The Waiting Game: The Untold Story of the Women Who Served the Tudor Queens” by Nicola Clark

When we think about queens of the Tudor dynasties, we often think about films and dramas that show the queen with a gaggle of girls following behind, gossiping, and just being best friends with their queen. However, things on TV and on the screen are not always truthful. The ladies-in-waiting during the Tudor dynasty lived on a tightrope on whether to live their truths or to stay neutral and silent. For centuries, these women tended to be in the shadows of those whom they served, until now. Nicola Clark, in her debut book, “The Waiting Game: The Untold Story of the Women Who Served the Tudor Queens,” tells the stories of these hidden figures of Tudor history.

I have been following Nicola Clark on social media and her research. When I heard that she was writing a book about the ladies-in-waiting for the Tudor queens, I was intrigued. I wanted to see what new information Clark could provide to the study of the Tudor court.

Clark has decided to focus on the ladies-in-waiting during the reign of the six wives of Henry VIII. While there were numerous ladies-in-waiting during Henry’s 36-year reign, Clark has made a conscious decision to focus on a select few of the women who served. She has chosen seven women to highlight: Maria de Salinas, Lady Willoughby, Elizabeth Stafford, Duchess of Norfolk, Mary Howard, Duchess of Richmond, Gertrude Blount, Marchioness of Exeter, Jane Parker, Viscountess Rochford, Anne Basset, and Katherine Willoughby, Duchess of Suffolk. Some of these figures, such as Maria de Salinas, Jane Parker, and Katherine Willoughby, are relatively familiar to average Tudor fans; however, including other women from different levels of service, from novices to more experienced ladies, adds depth to this area of study.

Clark shows us as readers what life was like for a lady-in-waiting, what they would deal with daily at court, and how, after they got married, home life was like. We get to see how they navigated an ever-changing world, from switching between queens quickly to figuring out what they were willing to sacrifice for their position and their families, as well as discovering whether their faith was strong enough to survive the dynasty. It was all a matter of time and patience.

 I found this an enjoyable read with stories about women who were often on the sidelines. Clark shed light on more obscure Tudors, and I think it gave more dimension to the tumultuous Tudor court. I am curious what Clark will write about next. If you want to learn more about the ladies-in-waiting for the wives of Henry VIII, I recommend you read “The Waiting Game: The Untold Story of the Women Who Served the Tudor Queens” by Nicola Clark.

Book Review: “‘If Any Person Will Meddle of My Cause’: The Judicial Murder of Anne Boleyn” by Heather R. Darsie

We all know the story of Anne Boleyn. The story of the English noblewoman who caught the eye of King Henry VIII, who decided to divorce his first wife, Katharine of Aragon, to marry Anne. He broke away from Rome and created the Church of England to do it, but marital bliss did not last long, as a few years later, Anne would leave their three-year-old daughter Elizabeth behind when she was executed by Henry over charges of adultery. We know this version of the story, but what if we look at Anne’s story from a continental European perspective? How does her story change when we view her life through a religious lens? Heather R. Darsie hopes to show her audience a different side of Anne Boleyn in her latest book, “‘If Any Person Will Meddle of My Cause’: The Judicial Murder of Anne Boleyn.”

I would like to thank Amberley Publishing for sending me a copy of this book. I have thoroughly enjoyed Darsie’s previous books because she adds depth to the Tudor dynasty by exploring European sources that are not prevalent in other nonfiction books about the Tudors. When I heard that she was writing a book about the fall of Anne Boleyn, I was curious to see what new information her continental sources would provide to Anne’s story.

So, how do you add something new to Anne Boleyn’s story when it is one of the most discussed topics when it comes to studying the Tudors? Darsie explains that her book is not a typical book about Anne Boleyn, as it focuses briefly on Anne’s life and examines the legal, religious, and international contexts surrounding her life. Each chapter of this book begins with part of a poem by Sir Thomas Wyatt, which is a nice touch as he was an admirer of Anne Boleyn. The first part of the book was a bit of an overview of Anne’s life, but Darsie did not go into much depth about Anne’s fall. Instead, she shows the relationships between England and continental Europe with the different political powerhouses. I found the information about the relationship between England and the German princes particularly interesting. It is these relationships that would prove pivotal in Anne’s life, reign, and fall from grace.

It is truly part two where Darsie shines. It is here that she focuses on the religious aspects of Anne’s fall. We all know that Anne was a bit more radical when it came to her religious views, but Darsie takes it a step further. She shows how England was trying to break from Rome centuries before Henry came along. Then, we get to see the religious reformers of England and of Europe who impacted Anne’s religious leanings. There is also an incident in Munster with the Anabaptists that freaked out Henry VIII very badly. Once you put the pieces together that Darsie lays out, it is quite astounding. 

As someone who reads a lot about Anne Boleyn, I am always looking for a new approach to her life. This is exactly what I wanted. By the end, I was speechless, and it brought new life to Anne’s fall and ultimate death. If you are a Tudor nerd and want a new angle to Anne Boleyn’s story, I highly recommend you read “‘If Any Person Will Meddle of My Cause’: The Judicial Murder of Anne Boleyn” by Heather R. Darsie.

Book Review: “Bring Up the Bodies” by Hilary Mantel

The year is 1535, and Henry VIII is growing bored with his current wife, Anne Boleyn. His eyes are wandering yet again, and this time his sights are set on Jane Seymour. Anne Boleyn had failed to give him his desired son, so Henry decided that it was only fitting for his right-hand man, Thomas Cromwell, to take down a queen. It’s Cromwell’s biggest challenge yet, but it could also become Cromwell’s defining moment. Hilary Mantel explores the pivotal months that pitted Cromwell against the Boleyns in her second book in the Wolf Hall trilogy, called “Bring Up the Bodies.”

Although the first book in the series, “Wolf Hall,” was a challenging read, I still wanted to continue reading the series. We all know Thomas Cromwell’s story, but since I started the Mantel retelling of his life, I wanted to see how she will handle the fall of Anne Boleyn.

We pick up where we left off in the first book, at Wolf Hall in 1535, where Henry VIII meets Jane Seymour and her family. The King is tired of Anne Boleyn, even though she is pregnant with what is hopefully Henry’s heir. Once they get back from Wolf Hall, rumors begin to spread about Anne’s infidelity while Cromwell is working on the dissolution of the monasteries. Anne has alienated so many people at court that they wonder if it’s time for a change and if perhaps Henry will take back Katherine of Aragon.

But it is too little too late. Katherine of Aragon will pass away without seeing her daughter, Mary. Anne believes that she is safe; however, fortune’s wheel is always turning. A jousting accident will rock the court and change the trajectory of Anne’s life forever. After Anne suffers a miscarriage, Henry decides now is the time to send in Cromwell to bring down the queen. We get the opportunity to see the downfall of Anne Boleyn and the men around her through the eyes of the man who brought about her fall from grace and her untimely death.

I enjoyed this novel more than Wolf Hall because there was that sense of drama and danger. We see Cromwell at his most impactful moment, but we also see that he is not some monster, but a human who was following orders. Mantel’s writing style may still be a bit difficult, but I felt this one was easier to follow along with than the first book. I cannot wait to see how Mantel will finish this trilogy. If you want to continue the Wolf Hall trilogy and see how the Cromwell/ Boleyn feud ends, I highly recommend you read “Bring Up the Bodies” by Hilary Mantel.

Guest Post: “Gilded Power – The Jewelry Legacy of the Tudors” by Sam Mee

I am pleased to welcome Sam Mee, founder of the Antique Ring Boutique, to my blog today to share an article about Tudor jewelry.

Jewelry was predominantly religious in the austere Middle Ages, focusing on relics, devotional rings, and crosses. But the Tudor rulers developed it as a way to project their own royal power and authority. Clothing fashions of the time emphasized structure, and monarchs like Henry VIII and Elizabeth I integrated jewelry to proclaim their status and divine favor. 

This was the age of portraiture, when the elite commissioned likenesses as propaganda. Hans Holbein the Younger depicted Henry VIII in a way that showed off his jewels and chains of office as much as his formidable bulk (and codpiece). Holbein’s most famous image of Henry is a 1537 mural that, while destroyed by fire in 1698, is still known through copies. It shows the King with a powerful stance and wearing multiple chains and rings to further emphasized his authority and wealth.

Holbein portrait, public domain image: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f9/After_Hans_Holbein_the_Younger_-_Portrait_of_Henry_VIII_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg/1024px-After_Hans_Holbein_the_Younger_-_Portrait_of_Henry_VIII_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg

Three similar Armada portraits of Elizabeth I were painted after England defeated the Spanish Armada. They take allegory even further. The Queen is almost encased in pearls. Her gown is embroidered with them, they sit on her hair, and pearl ropes hang from her neck, all to symbolize chastity and divine protection. More explicitly, her hand rests on the globe as a symbol of empire. Her powerful warships are visible in the background behind her gem-encrusted crown, signifying divine authority. 

Armada portrait, public domain image: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7b/Elizabeth_I_%28Armada_Portrait%29.jpg

In fact, Elizabeth I was rarely painted without pearls – other examples include the Darnley Portrait (c1575) and Rainbow Portrait (c1600). The pearls repeatedly symbolized the Virgin Queen’s chastity and wealth in bodily form.

The sumptuary laws

If gems and clothing signified power, then rulers needed to control who wore what. Medieval 15th-century sumptuary laws started to codify this across Europe. A 1463 English statute restricted who could wear “royal purple”, while a 1483 act restricted velvet to knights and lords and satin for gentry with a yearly income of £40.

Tudor England was an intensely hierarchical society, and so the laws were tightened further. Elizabeth’s 1574 Act of Apparel spelled out in detail who could wear what – her rules set which fabrics hats could be made of and dictated the length of swords, depending on the wearer’s standing. Check out the list here: https://midtudormanor.wordpress.com/sumptuary-laws/

Jewelry was also regulated with gold chains, heavy pearls, and precious stones reserved exclusively for the nobility. 

Enforcement was patchy but real, with surviving court records showing individuals tried for breaches and fined. These laws were somewhat symbolic, though. They were a way to make hierarchy visible rather than consistently enforced. Ambitious merchants and courtiers often flaunted jewels beyond their rank, with monarchs turning a blind eye.

Fashion at court

Jewelry was inseparable from clothing at court. Goldsmiths worked hand in hand with tailors, and jewels were sewn directly into doublets and headdresses.

We know Henry VIII wore vast gold chains and pendants and even occasionally jeweled codpieces. Courtiers followed suit with jeweled hat badges, enameled rings, and ornate girdle books (these were tiny, jeweled prayer books that hung from belts). They also wore gold pearl earrings. Women sported pearls, rubies, and diamonds on top of layered dresses made from richly embroidered fabrics. 

Anne Boleyn’s necklace – a large gold “B” with three drop-pearls dangling from it – is one of the period’s most famous jewels. It’s a very personal bit of jewelry that symbolized her individuality and status. (It survives only in portraits – its whereabouts after her 1536 beheading is not known).

Anne Boleyn’s B necklace, public domain image: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f2/Anne_boleyn.jpg

Global trends and treasures

The rise in the prominence of jewelry was part of a wider trend of expanding horizons – culturally, societally, geographically, and economically. Spain’s influx of New World gold and silver boosted Europe’s wealth, with England claiming its own share through figures like Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Francis Drake.

There’s extraordinary archaeological evidence of this, not just from the images of the time but from the Cheapside Hoard, discovered in 1912 beneath a London cellar. It’s a collection of more than 400 pieces. There are emerald rings, diamond pendants, and enameled chains with gems sourced from Colombia, India, Burma, and Brazil. The treasure shows that London goldsmiths had access to a global supply of jewels long before the height of the empire. 

Together with portraits, the Hoard is the richest record we have of Tudor jewelry, showing how jewels were actually made. You can read more about it here: https://www.londonmuseum.org.uk/collections/london-stories/jewels-cheapside-hoard/

Evolution of Tudor Jewelry

New fashions, new materials, and new freedoms (for some). Tudor jewelers developed new techniques to match these wider changes in society, combining medieval traditions with Renaissance artistry. Enameling reached new heights, and these techniques were carried forward into Georgian mourning jewelry and even into Victorian revival pieces.

Foil-backing was widely used in Tudor times to enhance jewels. Thin sheets of colored foil were placed behind gems like diamonds, rubies, or rock crystal to enhance their brilliance. This technique remained common until the 18th century, when more advanced diamond cutting began to produce inherent sparkle.

Gem cutting itself advanced in the Tudor period. Gemstones are rarely cut in bespoke shapes but tend to use standardized cuts designed to maximize brilliance or colour. This has been true since the Renaissance. Earlier medieval gems were typically worn as cabochons (smooth, polished domes), which enhanced colour but not brilliance. Then, from the late 15th century, jewelry began to experiment with faceting, where flat surfaces were cut at angles to reflect light, and Tudor lapidary work played a key role in the development and take-up of new techniques:

  • Cabochon: The oldest approach. A smooth, rounded dome without facets. Used in the medieval period for sapphires, garnets, and emeralds.
  • Point cut: This simple cut shaped a diamond into a pyramid with four sides. Mostly common in the 15th century.
  • Table cut: Developed in the late 15th century, this removed the top of the pyramid to create a flat “table” facet. It meant increased brilliance and became standard in Tudor jewelry.
  • Rose cut: Emerged in the 16th century as diamond saws and polishing technology improved. This had a flat base and a domed top covered in triangular facets to resemble a rosebud. The rose cut was popular until the 19th century.
  • Old mine cut: An 18th-century development. It’s a squarish cut combined with a high crown, deep pavilion, and large culet. It was the forerunner of the modern brilliant cut.

You can read more about the evolution from medieval jewelry techniques here. (https://historicalbritainblog.com/the-debt-antique-jewellery-owes-to-the-middle-ages-guest-post-by-samuel-mee/)

Settings in Tudor times typically enclosed the stone with gold, but Tudor jewelers began experimenting with more open settings to admit light. It was the Stuart era that really saw the development of the claw setting for diamonds, where the gem was held with tiny metal arms to allow much more light to pass through, dramatically increasing sparkle.

Tudor trends can be seen in subsequent centuries: 

  • Georgian jewelers turned enamel and foil into sentimental jewelry such as portrait miniatures (also common in Tudor times) and mourning rings.
  • Victorian designers enjoyed historical revival, and they often deliberately echoed Tudor styles, such as heavy Holbein-like gold chains and memento mori skulls.
  • Edwardian jewelers drove a revival of Elizabethan-style pears and combined them with lace-like platinum settings.
  • Art Deco designs were modernist in geometry but had a strong revivalist theme from Egyptian motifs to statement designs that matched 16th-century theatricality.

Surviving themes

Tudor jeweler was many things: regulated, global, technical, and symbolic. It was constrained by law, used as propaganda, and yet pushed at boundaries. It was part of the evolution of techniques and materials that developed over several hundred years as jeweler changed to become ever more personal. And even specific gem traditions persisted. The Tudor love of pearls was echoed in the Edwardian era. Tudor foiling foreshadowed Georgian brilliance. Tudor enameling was revived multiple times in the centuries that followed. Let’s just hope the codpiece doesn’t return. 

About the Author

Sam Mee is the founder of the Antique Ring Boutique (https://www.antiqueringboutique.com/), which sells rings from the Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco eras. He has several guides on his website for buying rings from different historical periods. EG, you can learn more about ring cuts and foiling in the guide to Georgian rings: https://www.antiqueringboutique.com/en-us/pages/georgian. He is a member of both Lapada (https://lapada.org/dealers/antique-ring-boutique/) and BADA (https://www.bada.org/dealer/antique-ring-boutique).