Tag: Elizabeth I

Book Review: “Heresy” by S. J. Parris

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Tudor England was a chaotic dynasty, especially when it came to issues pertaining to religion. If you were a citizen, you had to either sacrifice your faith to stay alive or sacrifice yourself for your faith. This animosity between Catholics and Protestants came to the forefront during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I, and the most prominent battleground was the universities. To protect the queen, Sir Francis Walsingham has decided to send Giordano Bruno to Oxford University to uncover a Catholic conspiracy, but as soon as he arrives, the murders begin. Can Bruno uncover the conspiracy and find the murderer before they murder him? And can Bruno find his own treasure at the university? This is the premise of the first novel in the Giordano Bruno series by S.J. Parris, “Heresy.”

I am always looking for a new take on the Tudors. I have heard about S. J. Parris’s novels online, but I have yet to read any of her books. The description of this novel was intriguing, and Bruno sounded like a Shardlake-esque character, which I love.

So let’s talk about Bruno. Giordano Bruno was a free thinker and a monk at the monastery of San Domenico. Bruno is not afraid to read controversial texts, even if it means that the Inquisition is fast on his heels. We jump a few years ahead when Bruno is living in England and is friends with Sir Philip Sidney. Sir Francis Walsingham has heard about Bruno and asked him to visit Oxford to uncover a Catholic conspiracy, which works out well since Bruno was planning on debating the Copernican theory of the universe with one of Oxford’s greatest minds. But Bruno also has another goal in going to Oxford, which is to find a controversial book that is rumored to be at Oxford, for his own enjoyment.

Unfortunately, things at Oxford are not as calm as they seem. A sinister plot begins to unfold as it is discovered that a man is mauled to death by a dog. It seems to be a tragic accident, but Bruno soon discovers that this was only the beginning of a series of murders. While the murders may not seem connected, Bruno finds out that there is a Catholic thread connecting them all. Rector Underhill may want to hide these murders from the public to protect the school, but he struggles to protect his own family, especially his headstrong daughter Sophia.

Bruno reminds me a lot of Shardlake in the best possible way. The man is intelligent and is willing to find out the truth no matter what it takes. This novel felt so similar in style but unique in the writing style, the characters, and the macabre crimes. It is so compelling that I cannot wait to read more of this series. If you want a mystery series set during the reign of Elizabeth I with a religious twist, I highly suggest you read book one of the Giordano Bruno series, “Heresy” by S. J. Parris.

Book Review: “The Boleyn Secret” by Alison Weir

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The Boleyns were one of the most infamous families during the Tudor reign in England. The rise and fall of Anne Boleyn, her father, Thomas, and her brother, George, were seismic. However, there was one Boleyn who didn’t get nearly enough attention, and that is Mary Boleyn, Anne Boleyn’s sister, who was mistress to King Henry VIII before Anne was even part of his life. Throughout history, it has been debated that Mary’s children with her first husband, William Carey, were in fact the illegitimate children of Henry VIII. Alison Weir explores the life of Mary Boleyn’s daughter, Catherine Carey, in her latest novel, “The Boleyn Secret.”

I would like to thank Ballantine Books and NetGalley for sending me a copy of this novel. Alison Weir is one of my favorite historical fiction authors, so whenever I hear that she has a new novel coming out, I jump at a chance to read it. The idea of a new novel about Catherine Carey was an appealing concept, and I could not wait to see how she would approach Catherine’s story.

Catherine, known in this novel as Kate, did not have the greatest start at court, as her first assignment was to assist her aunt Anne Boleyn in the Tower as she awaited her execution. For a young woman, it was a time that would change her life forever. Kate would help serve her cousin, Elizabeth Tudor, the recently declared bastard child of Anne Boleyn and Henry VIII. The two cousins have a strong connection that will last for decades. However, Kate falls in love with a young courtier named Francis Knollys, and they begin a life away from court at their new home, Greys Court.

While Kate is creating a family with Francis, she learns two major aspects that will define her life moving forward. She becomes aware of the secret that her mother kept until her deathbed about who Kate’s true father was. This secret will radically alter how she views her own family and her connection to Elizabeth. Kate also explores her own faith, becoming one of the Reformist faith, like Francis, but it puts the family in danger during the reign of Mary I. We get to see the struggle of those who did reform during Mary’s reign, seeking refuge in other European countries like Germany, which, at the time, was more lenient towards Reformers. When Elizabeth becomes queen, Kate believes that this will be a time of peace for her and her family. But Kate learns that Elizabeth’s love towards her cousin is possessive, and Kate is in a constant state of tug-of-war between Elizabeth and Francis with her 16 children.

Catherine Carey/Kate Knollys’ story is one filled with love and dangers of living with a secret that, if it were revealed, would alter history forever. Kate’s story is often overlooked when we talk about the Tudor dynasty, but it shows the dangers of the dynasty and what it meant to fight for your family and for love in the 16th century. I thoroughly enjoyed the way Alison Weir wrote this novel and gave Kate her own voice. If you want a delightful novel full of love and danger set in the midst of the Tudor court and focusing on a Boleyn cousin of Elizabeth I, I highly recommend you read “The Boleyn Secret” by Alison Weir.

Book Review: “Mary Tudor: The Spanish Tudor” by H.F.M. Prescott

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Mary Tudor, the daughter of Katherine of Aragon and King Henry VIII, has been viewed as a villainess for centuries due to her treatment of Protestants. She has unfortunately been given the nickname of “Bloody Mary.” However, if we really take a look at this woman’s life, we will see that it is full of tragedies and the search for love. Who was Mary Tudor, later known as Queen Mary I, the first ruling Queen of England, and why has she been misunderstood for centuries? H.F.M. Prescott explores the life of this much-maligned queen in her biography, “Mary Tudor: The Spanish Tudor.”

This was a used bookstore find for me. When I began studying the Tudors when I was younger, I fell into that category of seeing Mary I as a horrible villainess, but as I have gone on with my adventures into the Tudor dynasty, I have felt more sympathetic towards Mary’s story. I wanted to read a biography about her, so when I saw this thick tome, I decided to give it a try.

Mary Tudor, later Queen Mary I of England, was the only child of Katherine of Aragon and King Henry VIII. Since she was the only legitimate child of Henry VIII at the time, she was named Princess of Wales. Things were going well until Henry decided to divorce Katherine to marry Anne Boleyn. By the time Anne Boleyn had her daughter, Elizabeth, Mary was declared a bastard, separated from her mother, Katherine, forever, and forced to serve her half-sister. The humiliation as she was forced to submit to her father’s authority as the Supreme Head of the Church of England. Only after she submitted to her father was she able to return to his favor for a bit, and Mary and Elizabeth were returned to the line of Succession until he died in 1547.

Mary’s younger half-brother, Edward, was now King, which meant that he could bring forth a more Protestant-leaning government, putting Mary, a devout Catholic, in a dangerous predicament. Mary thought about running away, but she ultimately decided to stay and wait it out because she believed that she would be queen after Edward died. She was right, but it took a few days to figure it out as Edward chose Lady Jane Grey to be the next queen. Eventually, Mary did become the first ruling Queen of England, but she soon learned that just because she wore the crown did not mean she would gain the love she so wanted. She fought for her religion, the love of her husband, Philip II of Spain, and the child she would never have. In the end, Mary’s life and legacy were tarnished for centuries, which is a sad conclusion to such a tragic tale.

Prescott does a great job telling Mary’s story with a more sympathetic look. While I did enjoy this biography, I wish we had a bit more about Mary’s reign, as it felt a bit rushed compared to the rest of the biography. I also wish she had provided translations of the Latin texts she had within the biography for those of us who are not familiar with Latin. Overall, I found this biography informative and well-researched. If you want a solid biography about Queen Mary I, I recommend you read “Mary Tudor: The Spanish Tudor” by H.F.M. Prescott.

Book Review: “Embroidering Her Truth: Mary, Queen of Scots and the Language of Power” by Clare Hunter

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The field of history is ever-expanding as we find new artifacts and documents that change our understanding of the past. Some of the more precious artifacts are textiles, from clothing to embroidery and even wall hangings and bedding. They can tell us a lot about their owner if you understand the symbolism. While some symbolism can be rather simple, other textile symbolism could help display the voice of a woman who was silenced, like the women of the 16th century. One woman who used textiles to display her power and her own voice was Mary Queen of Scots. Clare Hunter explores Mary’s life through the textiles connected with her life in her book, “Embroidering Her Truth: Mary, Queen of Scots and the Language of Power.”

I have seen this book mentioned on a few pages and podcasts, and it sounded alluring to me. I have tried my hand at embroidery, so I appreciate the craft itself. I have wondered about textiles and how they could be interpreted, which is why this appealed to me so much. I couldn’t wait to own it and read it.

So how do you tell the story of Mary Queen of Scots through the textiles connected to her life? Well, for Hunter, she decided to weave her own interactions with these textiles into Mary’s life in chronological order while analyzing the textile artifacts. Each chapter focuses on a different stage of Mary’s life, as well as the textiles that fit that period. Some of the examples of the artifacts that are mentioned in this book include the gowns she wore when she was about to marry the Dauphin, the fashion dolls to help bring French fashion to Scotland, Catholic banners, and memorabilia to spread the faith. We also get to see the embroideries that she planned meticulously while in custody with Bess of Hardwick, to spread their own truths and their political power while being silenced. Finally, Hunter explores the dress that Mary wore during her execution and what happened to her clothing after her death.

I will say that this is one of the most original nonfiction books that I have read in a long time. It presented Mary’s life through a different lens and showed that she did have power even as a prisoner. It gave me a better appreciation for Mary’s life and the amount of effort it took to craft such intricate pieces of textiles. I hope Hunter writes more about the history of textiles beyond the 16th century because I think her writing style and knowledge of the subject can help grow interest in this area of historical studies. If you want a book that explores the life of Mary Queen of Scots from a different angle, I highly recommend you read “Embroidering Her Truth: Mary, Queen of Scots and the Language of Power” by Clare Hunter. 

Book Review: “Capturing a Queen: The Image of Anne Boleyn” by Owen Emmerson and Kate McCaffrey

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Have you ever stared at a portrait of a historical figure and wondered if that’s what they really looked like? Anne Boleyn is one of the most famous queens in all of English history. Her image of a woman with dark hair, wearing a dark gown with a French hood, and a B initial necklace. For many people, this is what Anne Boleyn looked like, but is that accurate? What did Anne Boleyn look like, and why does it matter? The most recent exhibit at Hever Castle explores these questions, and the book that accompanies this exhibit goes deeper into the research behind this exhibit. The book shares the same name as the exhibit, “Capturing a Queen: The Image of Anne Boleyn” by Owen Emmerson and Kate McCaffrey.

I would like to thank Owen Emmerson for sending me a copy of this book. I have been interested in this exhibit ever since it was announced that Dr. Owen Emmerson and Kate McCaffrey were researching portraits of Anne Boleyn. Since I could not visit the exhibit in person, I really wanted a copy of this companion book as a way to support the research that is ongoing at Hever Castle.

So how can we possibly understand what a woman who lived over 500 years ago looked like? Well, to begin with, we need to examine how her daughter, Queen Elizabeth I, brought her mother’s name and figure out of obscurity to solidify her own legitimacy as Queen of England. We get an exploration of corridor portraits and the famous Chequers Ring to show how the Elizabethans remembered Anne Boleyn. The book then moves to the term damnatio memoriae, which was a Roman practice to eliminate someone’s name and images from history. In the case of Anne Boleyn, her image and name were not eliminated, and in fact, we do have a few artifacts that survived to the modern day, including some that were recently discovered, and her personal books.

Now, we come to the main topic of the exhibition, what Anne Boleyn looked like. We get to examine physical descriptions of Anne, including her hair color, which might surprise people. We also get a glimpse of how Anne’s European education shaped her time as queen consort. Finally, Emmerson and McCaffrey give their readers a deep dive into contemporary portraits of Anne, what messages the portraits tell, and how the image of Anne transformed over the centuries through different media. This includes an in-depth analysis of the Hever Rose portrait, which is one of the most famous portraits of Anne Boleyn, that recently underwent more scientific research.

I loved this book so much. I learned a great deal from this book, and I am sure the exhibit is fabulous in person. The amount of research that went into this exhibit and this book was extraordinary, and I applaud the respect that they gave to those historians who came before in this field of research. If you are a Tudor nerd or an Anne Boleyn fan, the new exhibit at Hever Castle is a must-see exhibit, and “Capturing a Queen: The Image of Anne Boleyn” by Owen Emmerson and Kate McCaffrey is a book you must read.

Book Review: “The Stolen Crown: Treachery, Deceit and the Death of the Tudor Dynasty” by Tracy Borman

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It is March 1603, and the Virgin Queen is dying. She has no children to inherit her throne directly, so she must choose a successor. She chooses the son of Mary Queen of Scots, the queen who had been executed a few years before. James VI of Scotland will become James I of England, but was it as easy as William Camden makes it in his account? What does a recent discovery about Camden’s original manuscript of Annales tell us about James’ succession to the throne of England? Tracy explores the messy conflict to find an heir to the English throne in her latest book, “The Stolen Crown: Treachery, Deceit and the Death of the Tudor Dynasty.”

I would like to thank Grove Atlantic and Net Galley for sending me a copy of this book. I have been a fan of Tracy Borman’s books for a few years now because of how she is able to present new information about stories from the past that I already know and give them a fresh look. When I heard that James might have stolen the crown from Elizabeth I, that thought intrigued me so much that I knew I wanted to read this book.

So how did the Stuarts come into power, and why did Elizabeth have James as her successor? To understand that question, we have to explore briefly the origins of the Tudor dynasty and how Elizabeth I came to the throne. After we are firmly established in the reign of Elizabeth I, Borman goes through why Elizabeth needed to elect a successor and the nominees. Those up for Elizabeth’s throne were: James VI, Arbella Stuart, Lady Katherine Grey, Mary Grey, and Henry Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon. We get to see how Elizabeth handled each of her potential choices as the next ruler of England, but the two that are highlighted significantly in this book are Arbella Stuart, the daughter of Charles Stuart, 5th Earl of Lennox, and Elizabeth Cavendish, and the man who would become King James VI of Scotland.

Borman shows her readers the complex relationship between Elizabeth and James, a tumultuous relationship, especially after the death of James’ mother, Mary Queen of Scots. It was not the most cordial relationship that has been shown in history, including the Annales written by William Camden. However, due to extraordinary research that was revealed in 2023, it was shown that Camden’s writing had serious revisions to paint James in a better light during the fight for succession. In fact, there were attempts on Elizabeth’s life that James knew about, including one incident where he might have been directly involved. Just because James became King of England after Elizabeth’s death does not mean that he had an easier time in England. In fact, the Stuarts lasted less than a hundred years before the monarchy was dissolved with the execution of James’s son Charles I in 1649.

This is another spectacular book by Borman, one that changed how I viewed the relationship between Elizabeth and James in the final years. It reads like a political thriller and offers a deeper appreciation for Elizabeth’s fight for the English throne, while also highlighting how the Stuarts employed similar tactics to the Tudors in securing their right to rule England. Suppose you want an extremely well-researched book that provides great insight into the end of Elizabeth’s reign and provides new information about this period. In that case, I highly recommend you read “The Stolen Crown: Treachery, Deceit and the Death of the Tudor Dynasty” by Tracy Borman.

Poetry: Elizabeth of England by Agatha Christie

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My mom is a fan of Agatha Christie and a collector. She was recently reading one of Christie’s lesser-known books, “Star Over Bethlehem: Poems and Holiday Stories,” when she found a poem about Elizabeth I. I thought it was just neat to see a crime writer write a poem about Queen Elizabeth I.

Elizabeth of England

I am Mistress of England- the Seas I hold!
I have gambled, and won, alone….
I have freed my land from the power of Spain,
I have gathered in gold from the Spanish Main
With the help of my mariners bold.

But never a child of my flesh and blood,
When I shall be dead and gone,
Oh! never a King of the Tudor blood
Shall sit upon England’s throne….

I have saved my land from the dreaded foe,
My fleet will be known to fame,
And many a ship has sailed to the West
In Gloriana’s name!

I was menanced by Spain before I was born
In the months, oh! mother most dear,
When my father defied those powers twain,
The curse of the Church and the might of Spain,
To keep the oath he had sworn!

And Katharine, raging, invoked her God,
And appealed both far and near,
And fostered the plan of leer and of nod
Which brought you down to the bier….

So is it written in ages past
With a woman’s smile as bait,
A King shall risk his very soul
And change a nation’s fate….
Did you never fear, oh! mother of mine,
When you played on a King’s desire,
When first of queenly rank you dreamed,
And subtly plotted and boldly schemed
To further your high design?
Did you never dread that the hand which crowned
Could cast you down in the mire,
That a love so swift might be swiftly drowned,
And a King might love-and tire?

Oh! red were your lips as you smiled in his face,
And red was your hair as fire!
And red was the band around your neck
As you met your doom so dire….

An Oath I swore!-and the Pride of Spain
Is driftwood along my coast!
I was not too royal to scheme and to smile,
To pay with a promise-and daily awhile-
Till I changed my mind again….

Your blood, oh! mother, which gave me might,
(Not that of the Tudor host,)
And a woman’s game that was played aright
Is Elizabeth Tudor’s boast.

‘Tis perilous work to trifle with France…
To jest with Spain may be death…
But I played my part with a woman’s guile
And never a catch in my breath!

I have hated most women- but one above all,
(No matter her rank or name,)
Fair was her face, and her frame spread wide
When in France she dwelt as a royal bride
Ere she sailed to her fate and fall.

The lure of her beauty drew all mankind
Like a moth to the candle flame…
They brought me the warrant to sign…and I signed
With a flourish my royal name!

(But oh! to think that when I am gone
And laid in my grace so low,
The Crown which rests on my royal head
Shall adorn a Stewart’s false brow!)

She had fostered a plan to seize my throne,
Conspiring with Rome and Spain,
She had aimed at my life, so they said- what then?
It was never fear that drove my pen!

(Who have never a child of my own…)
But the jealous rage that naught can slake
Of a woman who loved in vain…
And she shall die for her beauty’s sake!
Who has loved- and been loved again!

(There are gallants thronging around my throne,
And many a maiden fair,
But the maids who come to Elizabeth’s court
Must coif Saint Catherine’s hair!)

I am Queen of England! I rule unafraid!
(But never a son of my own…)
I have gowns in plenty, and jewels rare,
With many a wench to tire my hair,
And they call me a painted jade!

But many a ship in Elizabeth’s name
Shall open up seas unknown….
And I shall share in my Children’s fame
Who have never a child of my own….

Source

Christie, Agatha. 2011. Star over Bethlehem. Harper Collins.

Book Review: “To Kill a Queen” by Amie McNee

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When we think of Elizabethan England, we tend to think of the Golden Age of England. A time of discoveries and for the arts to flourish under the Virgin Queen, Elizabeth I. However, there is a darker side. It was also a time of espionage, fears of invasions from other countries, and the hatred between Catholics and Protestants. The dangers of the Elizabethan underworld have reached the queen, as there is an attempt on her life. Can Jack, the son of a crime boss, change his life and find the culprit before they find him, or will he be betrayed by those he calls his friends? Amie McNee explores the seedy underworld of Elizabethan England in her novel, “To Kill a Queen.”

I would like to thank Crooked Lane Books and Net Galley for sending me a copy of this novel. I am a sucker for a good historical mystery, and if it is set in Tudor England, even better. I read the premise of this novel and decided to give McNee a try.

The year is 1579, and Queen Elizabeth I is entertaining her final suitor, the Duke of Anjou. The city is all abuzz with rumors of wedding bells. Everyone except Jack, a young coroner apprentice, who is the son of a crime boss. Jack is helping the Justice of the Peace, Ben, and his mentor, coroner Damian, try to solve a case of a wife beaten to death by her husband. It is a pretty open and shut case, so Jack was surprised to receive another case so soon. A soldier died protecting the queen from an assassin. Now, Jack, Ben, and Damian must find the assassin before it’s too late.

It seems like your typical murder case set in a period setting, but that’s where McNee mixes things up. We get to meet Jack’s father, Axe, the crime boss, and we find out that Jack is not their real identity. Not many know Jack’s true identity, except for his lover Jenny and Damian. Jack’s friend Harry is a common resident of Bedlam, but he is now out, and Jack has to take care of him. When associates close to Jack end up being killed, there is a sense of urgency that Jack has to find the murderer before they find Jack. There are a lot of twists and turns, and the reveal of the whodunnit was shocking, but the conclusion of the book did not fit well with the tone of the rest of the book.

Overall, it was a decent novel, even though it felt more Oliver Twist than Tudor. It was nice to see the typical Tudors step to the side so that we can focus on other stories in Elizabethan London. If you want a detective novel with an unlikely protagonist, filled with twists and turns, and set during the Tudor age, I recommend you read “To Kill a Queen” by Amie McNee.

Book Review: “Shades of Yellow” by Wendy J. Dunn

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Have you ever wondered what it might be like for a historical fiction writer during their writing process? How do they balance both their own lives and the lives of their characters? While we can read author interviews to find out what goes on in an author’s mind, why not take a fun twist of a historical fiction author writing about a historical fiction writer writing her first historical fiction novel? Meet Lucy Ellis, a new writer who is writing her first novel about the death of Amy Robsart while recovering from cancer and going through a divorce. Can Lucy finish her novel about Amy Robsart before her life and her health come crashing down? Wendy J. Dunn tells the tale of two women betrayed in her latest novel, “Shades of Yellow.”

I would like to thank Wendy J. Dunn and The Coffee Pot Book Club for sending me a copy of this novel. I am a fan of Dunn’s writing style, especially when it comes to her novels, so when I heard she was writing a new novel, I knew I wanted to read it before I knew the premise. The idea of a novel about writing a historical fiction novel was very intriguing, and to throw in the story of Amy Robsart in the mix adds to the complexity of this idea, which I love.

We begin with Lucy Ellis about to leave Australia for a research trip to England. Her mother does not want her to go because Lucy’s doctor found something concerning. Lucy is a survivor of breast cancer and is on the verge of a divorce from her husband, Ben, and she is nearing her 30th birthday. Life is hitting her hard, but along the way, she found a historical figure that she resonates with: Amy Robsart. She wants to tell the story of what really happened to Amy in her first novel, so she has to do research in England to make it more authentic.

Once in England, Lucy meets up with her aunt Jo, her cousin Max, and her grandpa, who is a blind author. We get to see her novel-writing process and bits of the novel while Lucy deals with a whole host of family drama. While the main focus of this book is Lucy’s story, sprinkled within are flashes of Amy’s life, how she felt about her husband Robert Dudley, and her rival in love, Elizabeth I. It is by studying Amy’s life that Lucy learns how to embrace life’s challenges and realize that she has people around her who love her. 

It takes a lot of skill to write not just one novel, but a novel within a novel, but Dunn nails it perfectly. I would love to read the finished novel about Amy Robsart one day. This novel takes the aspects of a dual timeline novel and flips it on its head in such an innovative way. If you want a contemporary novel about healing between two women centuries apart and their strengths to keep fighting when life throws so many obstacles their way, I highly recommend you read “Shades of Yellow” by Wendy J. Dunn. 

Blurb: 

During her battle with illness, Lucy Ellis found solace in writing a novel about the mysterious death of Amy Robsart, the first wife of Robert Dudley, the man who came close to marrying Elizabeth I. As Lucy delves into Amy’s story, she also navigates the aftermath of her own experience that brought her close to death and the collapse of her marriage. 

After taking leave from her teaching job to complete her novel, Lucy falls ill again. Fearing she will die before she finishes her book, she flees to England to solve the mystery of Amy Robsart’s death. 

Can she find the strength to confront her past, forgive the man who broke her heart, and take control of her own destiny?

Who better to write about a betrayed woman than a woman betrayed

Buy Link: 

Universal Buy Link: https://books2read.com/u/mqPGgd  

This title is available to read on #KindleUnlimited. 

Author Bio: 

WENDY J. DUNN is a multi-award-winning Australian writer fascinated by Tudor history – so much so she was not surprised to discover a family connection to the Tudors, not long after the publication of Dear Heart, How Like You This, her first Anne Boleyn novel, which narrated the Anne Boleyn story through the eyes of Sir Thomas Wyatt, the elder.  

Her family tree reveals the intriguing fact that one of her ancestral families – possibly over three generations – had purchased land from both the Boleyn and Wyatt families to build up their holdings. It seems very likely Wendy’s ancestors knew the Wyatts and Boleyns personally. 

Wendy gained her PhD in 2014 and tutors in writing at Swinburne University of Technology, Australia. She loves walking in the footsteps of the historical people she gives voice to in her books.  

Author Links: 

Website: http://www.wendyjdunn.com/ 

Newsletter: https://wendyjdunn.substack.com/ 

Facebook:  https://www.facebook.com/authorwendyjdunn 

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/wendyjdunnauthor/  

Threads: https://www.threads.com/@wendyjdunnauthor  

Bluesky: https://bsky.app/profile/wendyjdunn.bsky.social  

Book Bub: https://www.bookbub.com/profile/wendy-j-dunn  

TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@wendyjdunn  

Amazon Author Page: https://www.amazon.com/stores/Wendy-J.-Dunn/author/B004FRTZFA  

Goodreads: https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/197156.Wendy_J_Dunn 

LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/dr-wendy-dunn-6358181a  

Guest Post: “Gilded Power – The Jewelry Legacy of the Tudors” by Sam Mee

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I am pleased to welcome Sam Mee, founder of the Antique Ring Boutique, to my blog today to share an article about Tudor jewelry.

Jewelry was predominantly religious in the austere Middle Ages, focusing on relics, devotional rings, and crosses. But the Tudor rulers developed it as a way to project their own royal power and authority. Clothing fashions of the time emphasized structure, and monarchs like Henry VIII and Elizabeth I integrated jewelry to proclaim their status and divine favor. 

This was the age of portraiture, when the elite commissioned likenesses as propaganda. Hans Holbein the Younger depicted Henry VIII in a way that showed off his jewels and chains of office as much as his formidable bulk (and codpiece). Holbein’s most famous image of Henry is a 1537 mural that, while destroyed by fire in 1698, is still known through copies. It shows the King with a powerful stance and wearing multiple chains and rings to further emphasized his authority and wealth.

Holbein portrait, public domain image: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f9/After_Hans_Holbein_the_Younger_-_Portrait_of_Henry_VIII_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg/1024px-After_Hans_Holbein_the_Younger_-_Portrait_of_Henry_VIII_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg

Three similar Armada portraits of Elizabeth I were painted after England defeated the Spanish Armada. They take allegory even further. The Queen is almost encased in pearls. Her gown is embroidered with them, they sit on her hair, and pearl ropes hang from her neck, all to symbolize chastity and divine protection. More explicitly, her hand rests on the globe as a symbol of empire. Her powerful warships are visible in the background behind her gem-encrusted crown, signifying divine authority. 

Armada portrait, public domain image: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7b/Elizabeth_I_%28Armada_Portrait%29.jpg

In fact, Elizabeth I was rarely painted without pearls – other examples include the Darnley Portrait (c1575) and Rainbow Portrait (c1600). The pearls repeatedly symbolized the Virgin Queen’s chastity and wealth in bodily form.

The sumptuary laws

If gems and clothing signified power, then rulers needed to control who wore what. Medieval 15th-century sumptuary laws started to codify this across Europe. A 1463 English statute restricted who could wear “royal purple”, while a 1483 act restricted velvet to knights and lords and satin for gentry with a yearly income of £40.

Tudor England was an intensely hierarchical society, and so the laws were tightened further. Elizabeth’s 1574 Act of Apparel spelled out in detail who could wear what – her rules set which fabrics hats could be made of and dictated the length of swords, depending on the wearer’s standing. Check out the list here: https://midtudormanor.wordpress.com/sumptuary-laws/

Jewelry was also regulated with gold chains, heavy pearls, and precious stones reserved exclusively for the nobility. 

Enforcement was patchy but real, with surviving court records showing individuals tried for breaches and fined. These laws were somewhat symbolic, though. They were a way to make hierarchy visible rather than consistently enforced. Ambitious merchants and courtiers often flaunted jewels beyond their rank, with monarchs turning a blind eye.

Fashion at court

Jewelry was inseparable from clothing at court. Goldsmiths worked hand in hand with tailors, and jewels were sewn directly into doublets and headdresses.

We know Henry VIII wore vast gold chains and pendants and even occasionally jeweled codpieces. Courtiers followed suit with jeweled hat badges, enameled rings, and ornate girdle books (these were tiny, jeweled prayer books that hung from belts). They also wore gold pearl earrings. Women sported pearls, rubies, and diamonds on top of layered dresses made from richly embroidered fabrics. 

Anne Boleyn’s necklace – a large gold “B” with three drop-pearls dangling from it – is one of the period’s most famous jewels. It’s a very personal bit of jewelry that symbolized her individuality and status. (It survives only in portraits – its whereabouts after her 1536 beheading is not known).

Anne Boleyn’s B necklace, public domain image: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f2/Anne_boleyn.jpg

Global trends and treasures

The rise in the prominence of jewelry was part of a wider trend of expanding horizons – culturally, societally, geographically, and economically. Spain’s influx of New World gold and silver boosted Europe’s wealth, with England claiming its own share through figures like Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Francis Drake.

There’s extraordinary archaeological evidence of this, not just from the images of the time but from the Cheapside Hoard, discovered in 1912 beneath a London cellar. It’s a collection of more than 400 pieces. There are emerald rings, diamond pendants, and enameled chains with gems sourced from Colombia, India, Burma, and Brazil. The treasure shows that London goldsmiths had access to a global supply of jewels long before the height of the empire. 

Together with portraits, the Hoard is the richest record we have of Tudor jewelry, showing how jewels were actually made. You can read more about it here: https://www.londonmuseum.org.uk/collections/london-stories/jewels-cheapside-hoard/

Evolution of Tudor Jewelry

New fashions, new materials, and new freedoms (for some). Tudor jewelers developed new techniques to match these wider changes in society, combining medieval traditions with Renaissance artistry. Enameling reached new heights, and these techniques were carried forward into Georgian mourning jewelry and even into Victorian revival pieces.

Foil-backing was widely used in Tudor times to enhance jewels. Thin sheets of colored foil were placed behind gems like diamonds, rubies, or rock crystal to enhance their brilliance. This technique remained common until the 18th century, when more advanced diamond cutting began to produce inherent sparkle.

Gem cutting itself advanced in the Tudor period. Gemstones are rarely cut in bespoke shapes but tend to use standardized cuts designed to maximize brilliance or colour. This has been true since the Renaissance. Earlier medieval gems were typically worn as cabochons (smooth, polished domes), which enhanced colour but not brilliance. Then, from the late 15th century, jewelry began to experiment with faceting, where flat surfaces were cut at angles to reflect light, and Tudor lapidary work played a key role in the development and take-up of new techniques:

  • Cabochon: The oldest approach. A smooth, rounded dome without facets. Used in the medieval period for sapphires, garnets, and emeralds.
  • Point cut: This simple cut shaped a diamond into a pyramid with four sides. Mostly common in the 15th century.
  • Table cut: Developed in the late 15th century, this removed the top of the pyramid to create a flat “table” facet. It meant increased brilliance and became standard in Tudor jewelry.
  • Rose cut: Emerged in the 16th century as diamond saws and polishing technology improved. This had a flat base and a domed top covered in triangular facets to resemble a rosebud. The rose cut was popular until the 19th century.
  • Old mine cut: An 18th-century development. It’s a squarish cut combined with a high crown, deep pavilion, and large culet. It was the forerunner of the modern brilliant cut.

You can read more about the evolution from medieval jewelry techniques here. (https://historicalbritainblog.com/the-debt-antique-jewellery-owes-to-the-middle-ages-guest-post-by-samuel-mee/)

Settings in Tudor times typically enclosed the stone with gold, but Tudor jewelers began experimenting with more open settings to admit light. It was the Stuart era that really saw the development of the claw setting for diamonds, where the gem was held with tiny metal arms to allow much more light to pass through, dramatically increasing sparkle.

Tudor trends can be seen in subsequent centuries: 

  • Georgian jewelers turned enamel and foil into sentimental jewelry such as portrait miniatures (also common in Tudor times) and mourning rings.
  • Victorian designers enjoyed historical revival, and they often deliberately echoed Tudor styles, such as heavy Holbein-like gold chains and memento mori skulls.
  • Edwardian jewelers drove a revival of Elizabethan-style pears and combined them with lace-like platinum settings.
  • Art Deco designs were modernist in geometry but had a strong revivalist theme from Egyptian motifs to statement designs that matched 16th-century theatricality.

Surviving themes

Tudor jeweler was many things: regulated, global, technical, and symbolic. It was constrained by law, used as propaganda, and yet pushed at boundaries. It was part of the evolution of techniques and materials that developed over several hundred years as jeweler changed to become ever more personal. And even specific gem traditions persisted. The Tudor love of pearls was echoed in the Edwardian era. Tudor foiling foreshadowed Georgian brilliance. Tudor enameling was revived multiple times in the centuries that followed. Let’s just hope the codpiece doesn’t return. 

About the Author

Sam Mee is the founder of the Antique Ring Boutique (https://www.antiqueringboutique.com/), which sells rings from the Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco eras. He has several guides on his website for buying rings from different historical periods. EG, you can learn more about ring cuts and foiling in the guide to Georgian rings: https://www.antiqueringboutique.com/en-us/pages/georgian. He is a member of both Lapada (https://lapada.org/dealers/antique-ring-boutique/) and BADA (https://www.bada.org/dealer/antique-ring-boutique).